From 1st-25th August I birded N.Ecuador with BirdQuest Birding Tours visiting many of the major birding sites of the west Andean slopes, central valley, east Andean slopes, occaisonal forays into the western lowlands and a final week in the eastern lowlands along the Rio Napo in the Amazon rainforest. I recorded 753 species with a further 85 species heard only, the group saw a further 20 or so species. The birding in many parts was simply amazing, especially when a passerine flock wandered through the trees presenting opportunities to see many species in a very quick space of time, sometimes not enough time to look through them all before the colourful flock flitted onwards. The travel times were short, only a few hours to different biomes and the locals, food and landscapes were great adding to what is a fascinating country, with much natural habitat still intact. As my camera took it upon itself to brake early in the trip a full trip report isn't warranted and it would have been too long anyway! Below i've highlighted some of my observations.
1st - Quito (arid central valley) - Southern suburbs in the garden of our guesthouse: wonderfully coloured Vermillion Flycatchers, the local Rusty Flowerpiercer, Western Emerald, Black-tailed Trainbearer, Variable Hawk and Golden-rumped Euphonia.
2nd - Yanacocha reserve (west slope upper temperate forest) - A stunning area with ridge after ridge of pristine forest and the towering Pinchincha Volcano making up the view. The main track and hummingbird feeders produced: the rarest bird of the trip very early on, the critically endangered Black-breasted Puffleg, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Great Sapphirewing, impressive Sword-billed Hummingbirds, colourful Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanagers, Black-chested Mountain-tanager, Barred Fruiteater, habituated Tawny and Rufous Antpittas, Blackish Tapaculo and White-browed Ground-tyrant. The Tanadayapa valley and Bellavista cloud forest area had: noisy Wattled Guan, an exquisite Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Gorgeted Sunangel, Booted Racket-tail, good looks at the heavily spotted Ocellated Tapaculo and Beautiful Jays.
3rd - Rio Silanche reserve (western lowlands) - This tiny fragment of choco tropical forest produced some of the best birding of the trip from the canopy tower and several flocks along the track. Around 100 forest species seen during the day: the rare Plumbeous Hawk, scarce Cinammon Woodpecker, local Red-masked Parakeet, Black-headed Antthrush, Rufous-fronted Wood-quail, White-bearded Manakin, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Choco Tyrannulet, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, Purple-chested+Blue-chested Hummingbirds, White-ringed Flycatcher, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, White-throated Spadebill, Griscom's Antwren, the largely blue Bronze-winged Parrot, Scarlet-browed, Rufous-winged and Grey-and-gold Tanagers, huge Guayaquil and Lineated Woodpeckers, Northern Barred+Plain-brown Woodcreepers and Scarlet-thighed Dacnis.
4th - Mashpi Road (west slope upper foothill forest) - Arguably the best day of the trip with many quality choco endemics seen well at this relatively new birding destination: the declining Scarlet-and-white Tanager, Rufous-throated and Moss-backed Tanagers, ethereal Black-tipped Cotingas, Rose-faced Parrot, Black Solitaire, Indigo Flowerpiercer, Glistening-green Tanager, Club-winged Manakin, Violet-tailed Sylphs, Black-chinned Mountain-tanager, Golden-headed Quetzal, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, the quirky Toucan Barbet, Rufous Piha, beautiful American Swallow-tailed Kites, Bat Falcon and Choco Trogon. A Columbian Screech-owl was seen well back at our accomdation near Mindo town, it could throw it's voice really well, sounding 100 meters away and in fact only being 5 meters away!
5th - Bellavista area, Tandayapa Valley (subtropical cloudforest) and Mindo town - the morning in this famous valley was good birding with: Tanager Finch, Hooded Mountain-tanager, Spillman's Tapaculo, Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Plushcap, Grass-green Tanager, the impressive Strong-billed and Tyrannine Woodcreepers, Western Hemispingus split from Black-eared, Yellow-bellied Chat-tyrant, White-tipped Swift, Wedge-billed Hummingbird briefly at feeders, finishing the day with the impossibly tailed male Lyre-tailed Nightjar and Black-and-white Owl moth catching by lights.
6th - Angel Paz Antpitta site near Mindo back to Quito - close views of Giant and Ochre-breasted Antpittas came to worms handouts, also the endemic Dark-backed Wood-quail, Sickle-winged Guan and Olivaceous Piha. Later near Quito the rare White-tailed Shrike-tyrant was seen well.
7th - Papallacta Pass (e.slope highlands) descending to the Guacamayos Ridge and Loreto Road (subtropical forest) - At over 4000m there were: the magnificent Andean Condor, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Giant Conebill, Crowned Chat-tyrant and the emblematic Ecuadorian Hillstar. Much lower down birding along the road produced: White-rumped Hawk, Greenish Puffleg, day-roosting Blackish Nightjars, Striolated Puffbird, Yellow-throated Tanager, lovely Cliff Flycatchers and Green-fronted Lancebill.
8th - Sumaco Volcano (e.slope foothill forest) - Highlights in this lush forested area were: Rufescent Screech-owl, Gould's Jewelfront, Buff-throated Tody-tyrant, Napo Sabrewing, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Blue-naped Chlorophonia around a fruiting tree, White-tipped Sicklebill, the endemic Coppery-chested Jacamar, Fiery-breasted Fruiteater, finished with another cuddly screech-owl; the Foothill Screech-owl.
9th - Sumaco Volcano - Another day in this richly diverse area held: Military Macaw, rare Yellow-throated Spadebill, Grey-tailed Piha, Variegated Bristle-tyrant, Yellow-cheeked Becard, and the recently described Foothill Elaenia quite fittingly on the Coopman's Trail (after Paul Coopman's who discovered the species).
10th - Sumaco Volcano to Gareno Logde (e.lowland tropical forest) - A quick hike around the trails before leaving the sumaco area showed up further species such as: Band-bellied Owl, Western-striped Manakin, the big Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Blue-rumped+Blue-backed Manakins. Stops during travel to the lowlands showed up: Black-crowned Fairy, White-eared Jacamar, Rufous-tailed Tyrant, White-browed Purpletuft, Point-tailed Palmcreeper to within 1m and a Rufous Potoo at the lodge roosting.
11th - Gareno Lodge - After a nervous run-in with the local Huaorani Indian tribe, all carrying machetes, it was a full day on the km's of terra firma forest trail known as the 'Harpy Trail': the main target Fiery Topaz, Short-billed Antwren, Peruvian Warbling Antbird, Golden-winged Tody-flycatcher, White-chested Swift, Yellow-backed Tanager, White-eyed Tody-tyrant, Golden-collared Toucanet, Black-faced Dacnis, Purple-throated+Spangled Cotingas, and on a branch a row of four small Brown Jacamars. Returning to the lodge a nest of tarantulas was discovered above my bed in the cabin, must have missed them the previous night!
12th - Gareno Lode to Guacamayos Ridge - another day on the trails before leaving for higher and cooler climes: White-thighed Swallow, Mouse-coloured Antshrike, Black-bellied Cuckoo, Black Hawk-eagle and Yellow-billed Nunbird amongst others were added. Back at 2000m asl on the ridge-road new birds included: Blue-browed Tanager, several stunning Vermillion Tanagers moving through the trees and Andean Guan.
13th - San Isidro (e.slope upper subtropical forest) - largely rained off, the only day of the trip, but several shelters in the grounds allowed limited additions such as: Bluish Flowerpiercer, White-bellied+Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, Black-eared Hemispingus, Mountain Wren, Torrent Duck, the very elusive Barred Antthrush, Andean Solitaire, Highland Motmot and close views of the rare Andean Potoo nearby.
14th - San Isidro to Quito via Papallacta and Guango Lodge (lower temperate forest) - Better weather but no new species here so we headed west back to Papallacta seeing: the high altitude Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Viridian Metaltail, Golden-crowned Tanager and Andean Gull. Then on to Guango Lodge seeing: Mountain Velvetbreast, Black-chested Fruiteater (completing sightings of the whole family in Ecuador), Tormaline Sunangel, Glowing Puffleg, Black-capped Tyrannulet and Grey-hooded Bush-tanager. An optional muddy side trail produced a good rarity, the skulking White-rimmed Brush-finch with Grey-breasted Mountain-toucan nearby also. The tricky but colourful Red-rumped Bush-tyrant was a good way to finish the day in the uplands before reaching Quito.
15th - Antisana National Park (highlands south of Quito) - The open grassy landscape of the highlands below the towering Antisana Volcano complete with retreating equatorial glaciers produced a series of classic upland species such as: Andean Lapwing, Black-faced Ibis, Paramo Pipit, Giant Hummingbird, Black-chested Buzzard-eagle, Andean Coot, Andean Ruddy-duck and Streak-backed+Many-striped Canastero.
16th - Rio Palenque reserve (western lowland tropical forest) - Another small slice of standing forest surrounded by an agricultural desert (much like Silanche on the 3rd Aug). It was suprisingly how many birds were still flourishing in there including: Pallid Dove, Grey-and-gold Warbler, Great Antshrike, Little Cuckoo, the impressively-mandibled Red-billed Scythebill, Pacific Parrotlet barely the size of a Starling, Sooty-crowned Flycatcher, Greenish Elaenia, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, strikingly-plumaged Yellow-tailed Oriole and Pearl Kite on the journey back to the lodge.
17th - Tinalandia Lodge (western subtropical forest) to Quito - A quiet morning in the grounds of the dilapidated lodge before returning to Quito showed up: Orange-billed Sparrow, Black-crowned Tityra, Russet Antshrike, the local Ashy-throated Bush-tanager, Green Kingfisher and Band-tailed Barbthroat. The grounds here have lost many former species but is most useful for being well placed for visiting Palenque.
18th - Coca Town to La Selva Lodge along the Rio Napo by boat (eastern lowland Amazon rainforest) - After taking an internal flight from Quito to Coca, the last week was spent divided between the north and south banks of the Rio Napo, visiting both varzea flooded rainforest and dryer terra firma rainforest. It hadn't reportedly rained for over a week and the rainforest was bizarrely suffering from a drought. As a consequence very few flocks were seen and birds had to be really worked for on the trails. Saying that though the lodge was lovely, having just had a renovation it was 5*, complete with jacuzzi's on the balconys and michelin style food which helped make up somewhat for the lack of birds! The landscape was a far cry from the western lowlands which have been heavily denuded of its primary forest. Here in the east, the 90km boat ride to the lodge was flanked with rainforest the whole way. Great Potoo, Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Tropical Screech-owl, Hoatzin, Silvered Antbird, Laughing Falcon, the varzea specialist Orange-crested Manakin, White-beared+Rufous-breasted Hermits, Short-tailed Nighthawk and at dusk one of my favourites of the trip; the elusive Zig-zag Heron were seen.
19th - Yasuni National Park (eastern lowlands) - A full-day in the steamy forest, at least the canopy provided shade from the blistering sun. Not a single flock all day probably due to the drought but birds along the trail included: Wire-tailed Manakin, the tiny Double-banded Pygmy-tyrant, Banded Antbird, the tricky Ringed Antpipit, Brown Nunlet, stunning Blue-and-yellow Macaws raucously flying overhead, Purplish Jacamar, Slate-coloured Hawk and the rare Spix's Woodcreeper.
20th - Trails near La Selva and Napo River Island - hoping to catch up with many common terra firma species meant for another day on the trails this time north of the Rio Napo. Hacking through rarely visited areas showed up some rare and scarce species such as: Grey-crowned Flatbill, Slender-billed Kite, White-chinned Jacamar, Rusty-belted Tapaculo, Amazonian Barred, Straight-billed and Striped Woodcreepers, Ferruginous Pygmy-owl and the colourful Orange-backed Troupial. A mistimed trip to a Rio Napo River Island was like stepping out into a furnance with the sand reflecting a large amount of heat back up. The birding though was suprisingly good with Parker's+White-bellied Spinetails, Lesser Hornero at its nest, Lesser Wagtail-tyrant, Oriole Blackbird but the rare Riverside Tyrant slipped through the net as views were not good enough to be sure.
21st - Rio Napo clay licks + river island, onto the Napo Wildlife Center (eastern lowlands) - leaving La Selva we were treated to a Sunbittern view also their eerie song duets floating across the blackwater lake, Cream-coloured Woodpecker, Zimmer's Flatbill and Long-billed Woodcreeper. The parrot clay licks were a must-see and had Blue-headed Parrot, Dusky-headed Parakeet, Mealy and Yellow-crowned Amazons. An Anaconda had recently made an attack on a parakeet but the birds had returned this morning thankfully. Another Rio Napo river island in lesser heat had further specialised species: Fuscous Flycatcher, Spotted Tody-flycatcher, the bright Orange-headed Tanager, Castelnau's Antshrike, Short-tailed Hawk, Yellow-billed Tern, Black-and-white Antbird and finally an exciting Ecuadorian rarity in the form of a Connecticut Warbler. At the Napo Wildlife Center a parrot drinking pool was deafening with 1000+ Cobalt-winged Parakeets plus Scarlet-shouldered Parrotlet and Orange-cheeked Parrots visiting. It was a canoe paddle up to the lodge on another blackwater lake seeing Black-capped Donacobius, Speckled Chachalaca, Boat-billed Heron and Masked Crimson Tanager.
22nd - Napo Wildlife Center - A slow day on the trails again, missing out on hoped-for Black-necked Red-cotinga, but plenty of skulking antbirds added with the following seen: Rio Suno, Dugand's, Plain-throated+Yasuni Antwrens, Black-faced+Rufous-capped Antthrushes, Lunulated+White-plumed Antbirds, Cinereous Mourner, American Pygmy-kingfisher, nervous Sungrebes and Red-capped Cardinal.
23rd - Napo Wildlife Center - A few hours in the canopy tower sitting in the bow of a giant kapok tree looking out over a sea of primary rainforest stretching to the horizon in all directions, pure bliss, until the sun came out! New birds seen were: Grey-headed Kite, Blue Dacnis, Giant Cowbird and the scarce Ringed Woodpecker. The trails added: Great Jacamar, Lawrence's Thrush (heard mimicking several other species). In the varzea forest Chestnut-capped Puffbird and Pale-tailed Barbthroat were seen. The day finished with a staked out Long-tailed Potoo on its nest in an area we'd walked right past twice earlier in the day such is the fantastic camo. these birds have.
24th - Napo Wildlife Center to Pululahua Volcano (arid montane scrub) via Coca and Quito - It was goodbye to the Amazon this morning, seeing a Limpkin, Rufous-headed Woodpecker and Amazonian Umbrellabird on the boat ride back to the oil town of Coca. The group opted to visit an area north of Quito in the afternoon, after our flight back to the capital, called Pululahua Volcano (about 2800m higher than in the morning). The lodge and trails were located inside the volcano crater making for an exciting birding experience: the scarce White-throated Hawk, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Rufous-chested Tanager and Plain-breasted Hawk were added before dark.
25th - Pululahua Volcano and Parque Jerusalem reserve - An early start (4am) on my last day on the trip netted a wonderful close-up hunting Stygian Owl on the slopes with a pair of White-throated Screech-owls clearing up all the screech-owls in Ecuador. The rare Buff-fronted Owl stayed silent unfortunately. Further additions in the volcano and at Parque Jerusalem reserve near Quito were: Band-winged Nightjar, Andean Pygmy-owl, Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet, Scrub+Blue-and-yellow Tanagers, finishing with a Streaked Saltator before leaving for home.
We had Juan Carlos Calvachi as our guide and I would highly recommend him. He is an excellent birder with sharp eyes and ears which picked out many of the trip's new species as well as knowing lots of stake-outs for rare species. He also owns and conserves a large chunk of tropical forest as a reserve in the eastern lowlands. For information of tours he runs he can be contacted at www.ecuadorgateway.com or through www.birdquest.co.uk. If anyone would like more info on places visited/stayed or birds seen i'll be happy to help. Thanks.
-- Edited by Henry Cook on Friday 31st of August 2012 11:28:03 AM
